Preparation time: 15 minutes plus 30 minutes for the pastry case
Chilling time: 40 minutes for the pastry case
Cooking time: 25 minutes plus 20 minutes for the pastry case
For the shortcrust pastry
225g (8 oz) plain flour/cake and pastry flour (2 cups less 2 tbsp)
pinch of salt
55g (2 oz) butter, chilled and cubed (¼ cup, or ½ stick)
55g (2 oz) lard, chilled and cubed (¼ cup)
3 tbsp ice cold water
For the filling
55g (2 oz) rocket/arugula
140g (5 oz) cooked salmon fillet OR
1 tin/can wild red pacific sockeye salmon, drained and any skin and bones removed
2 eggs, large (U.K.)/extra large (N.A.)
240ml (8 fl oz) crème fraîche (1 cup)
salt and ground black pepper
23cm (9 inch) quiche tin (a solid tin with a loose base)
For the pastry
Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Rub in the butter and lard until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Sprinkle over the water and gently bring together. Tip onto a work surface and lightly knead into a ball. Wrap in cling film/wrap and chill for 20 minutes.
Roll out the pastry onto a floured work surface slightly larger than the quiche tin. Lift carefully into the tin, pressing the pastry down into the edges using the edge of your index finger. Run the rolling pin over the top of the tin to remove the excess pastry. Prick the base using the tines of a fork and return to the refrigerator to chill for a further 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) gas 6
Line the pastry case with baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes then remove the baking beans and parchment. Return to the oven for a further 5 minutes.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool.
For the filling
Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C (350°F) gas 4
Remove the pastry case from its pan and carefully transfer to a baking sheet.
Roughly chop the rocket/arugula, discarding any thick stalks, and spread over the base of the pastry case.
Flake the fish and scatter on top of the rocket/arugula.
Now beat the eggs and crème fraîche together, using a hand held electric mixer, until combined. Then season. Gradually pour into the pastry case.
Bake for 30 minutes until the mixture has just set.
A 15cm (6 inch soufflé dish) or 3 × 10cm (4 inch) individual soufflé dishes
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) (gas mark 4)
Grease the soufflé dish or dishes. Prepare a collar with baking parchment to go round the outside of the dish or dishes to support the mixture as it rises in the oven.
Over a medium heat, melt the butter in a large pan.* Reduce the heat and blend in the flour to make a roux. Let it cook over a low heat for 2–3 minutes. Warm the milk, then gradually stir into the roux until well blended (warming the milk first makes this easier). Bring to the boil, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and beat in the cheese, then add the egg yolks one at a time, beating well between each addition. Season.
Whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form, then very gently fold into the mixture until they are thoroughly incorporated.
Pour into the soufflé dish or divide between the individual dishes and bake in the oven for 30 minutes for the large soufflé or for 20 minutes for the individual ones. Do not open the oven door while they are cooking.
*Using a large pan will make it easier to fold in the egg whites.
When making a soufflé, the ratio between the ingredients is very important, so keep to the amounts above. Increasing the number of eggs to make a larger soufflé would affect its ability to be light and well risen.
I’m indebted to Paul Hollywood, the English baker and celebrity chef, for this recipe. These bacon and cheddar loaves make a great lunch or snack and are enjoyed by all the family.
I have played about with his quantities of ingredients, though. The recipe in his book “How to Bake” recommends that 500g, or just over a pound, of flour will provide 4 servings. Perhaps he has a bigger appetite than I do, but that’s equivalent to a quarter of a large loaf in each serving. And I feel that the bacon and cheddar gets a bit lost in all the bread.
My adapted recipe below halves the quantity of bread and increases the proportion of bacon and cheese. Perhaps you’d like to try different amounts and let me know how you get on?
Baking bread is not difficult if you follow this 3-step process. Each step involves a ‘wait period’ during which you can get on with something else. For more information about the technique I use, here’s a link to my page on Breadmaking.
Pour the flours into a mixing bowl and make a well in the middle. Add most of the water and mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon or a plastic dough scraper. If some flour is left in the bottom, add the remainder of the water. It may not need it all. Just make sure that all the flour has been taken up.
Cover the bowl with a tea towel and leave it to stand for 20–30 minutes.
In the meantime, prepare for the next step by weighing out the salt, yeast, and butter.
At the end of the 20–30 minutes, melt the butter and add it with the salt and yeast to the mixture, making sure that the yeast doesn’t come into contact with a wodge of salt, and mix well.
Cover the bowl with the tea towel and leave for 10 minutes.
Lightly oil your hands and the work surface, and tip the dough out. Take the edge of the dough that’s furthest away from you and fold it towards you to meet the near edge. Push it into the dough with your fingers or the heel of your hand, stretching it gently away from you. Give the dough a quarter turn and repeat. Do this 8 to 10 times, then rotate the dough into a ball and put it back in the bowl.
Cover with the tea towel again, leave for 10 minutes, and repeat the fold and stretch.
Cover again and leave for 10 minutes. While waiting, lightly oil another large bowl for the dough to rise in. Then fold and stretch the dough for a third time.
The dough should now be smooth and silky. Tip it out and shape it into a ball. Put it into the lightly-oiled bowl and cover with a tea towel or cling film.
Leave it to rise until it's at least doubled in size.* At room temperature, this should take a minimum of an hour but it's fine to leave it for 2–3 hours. The longer the better – it improves the flavour.
While waiting, heat a little olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat, and add the bacon, cooking gently on both sides until just cooked. Set aside to cool and then chop into small squares.
Then prepare a couple of baking trays. Line them with baking parchment.
Tip out the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface and knock the air out by folding it in on itself a few times. It should feel smooth. Add the bacon pieces and grated cheese to it, and knead until well mixed. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions and roll each portion into a smooth oval, tapering the ends into points. Place 2 loaves on each tray, dust with flour and slash the tops along their lengths.
Cover with tea towels, or place each tray inside a clean plastic bag, and leave to prove for about an hour. You can tell when they're ready when they've doubled in size again and the dough springs back readily if you poke it gently with your finger.
Before the end of the hour, heat your oven to 220°C/425°F (gas mark 7).
Sprinkle with a little olive oil and bake for about 20 minutes or until nicely browned. Eat warm.
Many recipes recommend using warm water to make the yeast work more quickly. However, the flavour is improved if the process takes place more slowly. I use water at room temperature or even a little cooler.
* Doubled in size means doubled in volume. This means that if the dough is in the shape of a ball, the diameter increases by about 25%.
Prepares: 4 servings for a light supper and 6 for a lunch
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Refrigeration time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
340g/12 oz potatoes, peeled and cut into equal sizes
25g/1 oz butter
2 x 213g cans red Pacific salmon
1 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
salt and pepper
milk to bind
1 egg, beaten
50g/2 oz fresh breadcrumbs
oil for frying
Put the potatoes in a pan of boiling, salted water and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain.
Cream the potatoes with the butter. Drain the salmon, removing any bones and skin and then mix into the potatoes with the parsley. Season to taste and bind with a little milk. Shape into 8 cakes for a light supper or 12 for a lunch. Chill for 15 minutes to firm up.
Put the egg in a shallow bowl and spread the breadcrumbs over a plate. Dip the fish cakes in the egg and then coat with the breadcrumbs. (You may need more egg and breadcrumbs if you are making 12)
Heat a little oil in a pan over a gentle heat and cook the cakes for about 5 minutes until golden brown. Turn and cook for a further 5 minutes. Garnish with parsley.
After they have been coated with the egg and breadcrumbs, open freeze them until hard then pack in a container, seal and return to the freezer. To thaw, place on a tray, cover loosely, and leave at room temperature for about 3 hours. Cook as above.
Cook the pasta in a pan of boiling salted water for 1 minute less than recommended on the packet of the brand you are using. Drain and set aside.
Meanwhile, pour the milk into a pan and add the bay leaves. Bring to the boil, then immediately remove from the heat.
In a separate pan, melt the butter. Add the flour and stir until there is a smooth paste (a roux).
Remove the bay leaves from the milk, then gradually add the milk to the roux, stirring constantly, until blended and smooth. Simmer to thicken to a double/whipping cream consistency. Remove from the heat.
Grill the bacon until just crispy. Let it cool a little then cut into small pieces.
Stir the pasta, bacon, cheddar and mustard into the sauce and add the pepper.
Spoon into the ovenproof dish. No need to smooth the top.
Toss the breadcrumbs and Parmesan together. Scatter over the top, completely covering the macaroni cheese mixture. Bake for 40 minutes until the top starts to brown.
Fish cakes originated as a means of using up leftovers that otherwise might be thrown away. In Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management (1859) she lists “the remains of any cold fish” and “cold potatoes” as the main ingredients. However, I think they make a delicious dish in their own right.
Prepares: 4 servings for a light supper or 6 for a lunch
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Standing time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
450g/1 lb haddock fillet
salt and pepper
1 tbsp lemon juice
225g/8 oz potatoes
1 tbsp parsley, chopped
25g/1 oz flour
50g/2 oz dry breadcrumbs
oil for frying
Preheat oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4
Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, place the haddock in a greased ovenproof dish. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with lemon juice. Cover and bake for about 10 minutes until the fish is just opaque.
Drain the fish, discard the skin and mash with a fork.
Drain the potatoes and mash. Add the fish and parsley, and season to taste. Beat one of the eggs and add it to the mixture to bind. Chill for 15 minutes to firm up.
Shape into 8 cakes for a light supper or 12 for a lunch. Spread the flour on a plate and the breadcrumbs on a second plate. Beat the second egg in a small bowl. Coat the fish cakes first in the flour, then the egg, shaking any excess egg as they are lifted from the bowl, and finally coat in the breadcrumbs. (You may need more egg, flour and breadcrumbs if you are making 12.)
Heat a little oil in a pan over a moderate heat. Fry the fish cakes for 5 minutes until golden brown, turn and cook for a further 5 minutes.
Once they have been coated in the breadcrumbs they can be frozen. Open freeze on a tray. When hard, transfer to a container, seal and return to the freezer. To thaw, place on a tray, cover loosely, and leave at room temperature for about 3 hours. Cook as above.